Halloween came early at Rick Owens, where — much like its Spring 2023 menswear collection — the brand showed broad-shoulder jackets, hooded robes and Frankenstein boots for its womenswear presentation at Paris Fashion Week. But if the menswear show exorcised our fears of doomsday with a runway full of flaming spheres, the womenswear collection extinguished some of those worries, with a gushing fountain and an abundance of water vapor permeating the set.
On a sunny Thursday afternoon at the designer’s old stomping grounds of the Palais de Tokyo, Rick Owens executed on the season’s apocalyptic energy, as models descended a steep staircase in platformknee-length boots. The opening of the show confirmed that the brand’s signature broad-shouldered jackets are, in fact, back, manifesting in sharp pagoda shoulder pads on layered dresses resembling a Roman toga.
Owens also experimented with draping. Working off the classic silhouette of a tunic, the fabric is bunched on different points of the body, such as the hip or waist, creating intriguing points of tension and release along the body. As is expected of the brand, there’s also an element of technical-wear present, apparent in thick silver zippers, an exaggeratedly oversized black rain-jacket and weighty metal cuff bracelets.
Likely inspired by Owens’ recent trip to Egypt, the collection’s color palette alters between sandy browns, earthy yellows and various tones of beiges. The choice of color, combined with the grittiness of technical-wear, is reminiscent of costumes worn in the desert for “Mad Max: Fury Road.” Yet this rawness is also offset by looks that are very feminine, with a selection of voluminous tulle ball-gowns in vibrant pinks that insert an unexpected pop of glamour into the collection.
See every look from Rick Owen’s Spring 2023 collection in the gallery below.
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